How Bay Area restaurants cater to celebrity dining guests

Table for 20?

It often starts with a call from a hotel concierge or member of a star’s entourage, said Pete Sittnick, managing partner and operator of Waterbar. The waterfront seafood restaurant along the Embarcadero has seen its justifiable share of stars, starting from multi-platinum music artists to a gaggle of reality TV stars from “The Real Housewives of Orange County.” In 2010, Sittnick welcomed the franchise to shoot a scene contained in the restaurant, culminating in a fight amongst said housewives and a storming off by Vicki “O.G. of the O.C.” Gunvalson. The table where they sat stays a fan favorite to this present day.

One memorable guest from the showbiz set was Drake, who, in 2018, made a pit stop while on the town. Drake had very specific requirements for where he and his entourage wanted to sit down, said Sittnick. “It needed to be a non-public area — and nobody could take photos or interact with him apart from our service personnel,” he said. No problem. “Once we know all those details ahead of time, we will easily accommodate those requests,” said Sittnick. 

Although the “Degrassi High” alumnus enjoyed his meal at Waterbar, the artist turned sour after a local news article described his evening. “Drake was very adamant about no publicity, but someway word got out,” said Sittnick — though not through the restaurant, he insisted. Nevertheless, Waterbar received an admonishing phone call from team Drake.

On a happier mononymous musician note, Sting has returned again and again to Waterbar, Sittnick said. He once sent his limo driver to choose up food and deliver it to him at Oakland Arena where he was playing. 

Over in Chinatown, George Chen, owner and executive chef of China Live, a sprawling restaurant and food emporium, often seats celebs in private rooms. Those include his 40-seat Gold Mountain Lounge, decked out in soft lighting, with intimate nooks away from the eyes — and phone lenses — of bizarre patrons. Chen has hosted the likes of Lady Gaga, Stevie Wonder (who, one evening at his now-shuttered Shanghai 1930, played an impromptu mini-concert on the restaurant’s piano), and Joan Chen. Michelle Yeoh and Sandra Oh, who were in San Francisco in May for a screening of “All the things All over the place All at Once” on the Castro Theatre, were allowed up on China Live’s unfinished, yet-to-be-opened rooftop deck to smoke cigarettes and snap a couple of shots with staff. And just a couple of weeks ago, he welcomed Roger Waters: The Pink Floyd musician got here with a rider requesting a non-public room, with servers wearing masks, no photos or social media, and his own security detail. “He was very friendly,” said Chen. 

But reservations are frequently key for improving accommodations. Without them, celebs looking for a non-public dining experience, who often come equipped with an entourage, might be out of luck. Just ask Jay-Z and Beyonce. “They called us at 11 o’clock to do a non-public lunch for, like, a bunch of 15 and 20 at noon that day,” said Sitnick, who was forced to say no. “It was gonna be too many hoops for me to leap through.”

On the other hand, sometimes advanced reservations aren’t mandatory, especially on a Monday night. In September, with only a couple of hours notice, Puerto Rican superstar Bad Bunny hauled a bunch of 80 friends and backup dancers to Sol Food in San Rafael, where staff welcomed him for a feast of pork chops, tostones and mofongo with shrimp. 

“Pasta Pelosi”

A-listers prefer a back-door entrance. It’s of their nature. Bypassing the velvet rope not only makes celeb specimens feel special; it allows them to maneuver a restaurant space undetected.

Co-owner Anna Weinberg of Tosca Cafe, which has hosted Lady Gaga and LeBron James within the North Beach restaurant’s private dining room, has chauffeurs pull as much as the back of the restaurant to welcome guests who require discretion. The North Beach institution, which underwent a significant revamp in 2019, changing from sultry dive bar to lauded restaurant, has seen a slew of stars go through its Columbus Avenue doors over time, from Sean Penn and the beatniks to Rudolph Nureyev and the Coppolas. During its grubbier circa-Nineteen Nineties years, the previous owner Jeannette Etheredge, would sometimes leave her keys with Metallica drummer Lars Ulrich, and tell him to lock up when he was done.

Today, Weinberg also sees regular luminaries come through the doors of the 103-year-old venue. Each Mayor London Breed and Speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi frequent Tosca Cafe — the latter making it a daily dinner. “Now we have a special pasta for her, Pasta Pelosi,” said Weinberg: Cacio e pepe, but made with zucchini noodles as a substitute of traditional pasta.

A representative for Pelosi confirmed that the congresswoman “has loved Tosca Cafe for a few years.” As to her position on spiralized squash, they declined to comment on the record.

This isn’t to say that each star will at all times get what they need. Pim Techamuanvivit, chef-owner of the celebrated Thai restaurants Kin Khao and Nari, said she will’t at all times give our celeb class the accommodations they demand. 

“I can’t magically create a non-public space,” she said. Normally she’ll simply seat said celebrity and any accompanying entourage at certainly one of her larger tables. 

Presumably to spice up his possibilities at a last-minute accommodation, Kanye West once made a reservation at Nari — under the name René Redzepi, the Danish chef and owner of Noma, perhaps essentially the most revered restaurant on Earth. 

(The Chronicle reached out to the rapper legally generally known as Ye on social for a press release, however the singer-mogul’s direct messaging capabilities have been temporarily restricted as a consequence of antisemitic tweets.)

But, as Techamuanvivit said, West didn’t need a reservation. A semi-private table, large enough to accommodate his party of 10, was already available. “When you book a table to your mom’s birthday or whatever, you can also have that table,” said Techamuanvivit. 

She went on to notice that Kanye and his group were “all perfectly polite and ate plenty of food,” although when it became clear to Nari staff that Redezepi wouldn’t be joining them, some were reportedly dissatisfied.

The Zuckerberg menu

Restaurants can be too accommodating to our luminary class. The French Laundry, certainly one of the world’s most precious and pricey restaurants, took heat in 2020 for hosting a now-infamous lobbyist’s birthday dinner at the peak of covid — with nary a mask in sight. The maskless guests included Gov. Gavin Newsom, who had just urged California residents to remain home.. At some point later,  San Francisco Mayor London Breed, whose city was reeling from rife small business closures and burnt orange skies, followed suit, this time at a socialite’s party. 

While the politicians’ attendance on the tony feasts raised eyebrows — leading to a “Saturday Night Live” bit roasting the Golden State governor — it did little damage to their political trajectories. 

However the Yountville restaurant, once primarily known for Thomas Keller’s exacting California cuisine, has yet to shake its newly cemented status of unrestricted elitism. “Dinner at The French Laundry isn’t a lot dinner anymore because it is a standing symbol, like macaroni and cheese served in a large golden egg,” penned Recent York Times restaurant critic Tejal Rao following the rules-for-thee-not-for-me supper. 

The meal actually wasn’t well worth the political capital — or, as Chronicle critic Soleil Ho would argue, the value in any respect.

As for our tech brethren — a robust political class of their very own — they’re given special treatment de

pending on their status. Many restaurateurs told The Chronicle that, at times, unrecognizable tech ilk would grace their establishments with demanding service, barking their company names with abandon, and with little success. 

But when you’re the programmer who helped start Facebook, the world is yours: In 2012, Mark Zuckerberg and Priscilla Chan made their inaugural visit to Benu, certainly one of San Francisco’s three-star Michelin joints, but reportedly found the multi-course meal a tad too long. Chef Corey Lee allegedly sped up the 17-course tasting menu to appease the busy power couple.  

“Everyone waits”

What about restaurants that don’t require months-in-advance reservation? Or places where long lines are de rigueur? Often celebs can have to attend in those lines with the remaining of humanity.

Mama’s on Washington Square, a North Beach mainstay since 1951, has seen the likes of Burt Lancaster, Amy Schumer and Julia Roberts wait in line for brunch. Everyone must queue, no matter who they’re, said Michael Sanchez Jr., chef and second-generation owner of Mama’s. 

“There was just one time I let someone past the road,” said Sanchez, when a  friend desired to bring a special guest, who turned out to be Ryan Seacrest. The friend and former KTVU reporter-slash “American Idol” host arrived in a limo, and walked right in.

When asked what variety of celebrity accommodations Swan Oyster Depot offers, chef and co-owner Steve Sancimino said: “None, everyone waits.” In its 50 years in business, the favored Polk Street seafood spot, which sees long lines extending out its doors, has only given the star treatment to 1 person: a family friend and constant customer who had just turned 102 years old. Seeing the road of 20-plus people, Sancimino graciously asked them in the event that they’d allow his pal, who couldn’t stand, to pass because it was his birthday. 

“Everyone in line agreed he could break the road. And that was the one time we allowed it to occur.”

Brock Keeling is an award-winning author who covers California. Email: food@sfchronicle.com.